THE IMF MOUNTMAKERS DIRECTORY IS NOW LIVE! The IMF Mountmakers Directory is a database of Mountmaker information based on the poll we put out earlier this year. We hope this will continue to evolve and become a useful resource for anyone who is looking for a colleague, a mountmaking training or a freelance mountmaker to hire. We are starting out by offering the Directory as searchable spreadsheets, but we will revisit the idea every year to update and improve!

SENIOR MOUNTMAKER- DEPARTMENT OF DECORATIVE ARTS AND SCULPTURE The Opportunity The J. Paul Getty Museum seeks a qualified Senior Mountmaker to join the Department of Decorative Arts and Sculpture Conservation located at the Getty Center in Los Angeles, CA. The ideal candidate will have a strong background in museum mountmaking and exhibition installation with experience in designing mounts for a diverse collection ranging in scale from small jewelry to monumental sculptures. Preference will be given to applicants who are proficient in seismic mountmaking and have an interest in advancing knowledge and practices in this field. Working as a collegial and engaged team member with other Mountmakers, conservators, curators and art preparators at the Getty Center, the Senior Mountmaker will design and fabricate mounts for permanent collection installations and for temporary exhibitions, as well as supports for photography. They will undertake research into material use and technological innovation and strive to advance methods for the safe display of works of art for the display of the Museum’s collection, special exhibition program, and out-going loans. Qualifications - Bachelor’s degree in fine arts, studio arts, conservation, design, engineering, or industrial arts - 7-10 years’ experience in design and fabrication of mounts and handling of art objects, 5 years of which in a museum Salary information: Hourly: $33.48-$43.53 Link: Senior Mountmaker in Los Angeles, California | Careers at The Getty (icims.com) )

The National Museum of the Marine Corps, located in Quantico, VA is looking for an Exhibit Specialist / Mountmaker. Please check out the posting at: https://www.usajobs.gov/GetJob/ViewDetails/552836200 Alice Webb Email: alice.webb@usmcu.edu

Jamie Hascall Jun 4 Hi All, I’m wondering what the current opinion is in the museum and conservation community regarding the use of Volara and volara type fused surface polyethylene foams. It has long been a standard padding in mountmaking, but a review of the current Oddy test results in the AIC Wiki raises questions about its long term use. In addition, I’m seeing suppliers that used to be sources of Volara with an acrylic adhesive no longer offering it. I’m wondering if there have been problems with it or if what seem like minor blemishes in the test results are influencing the availability of an otherwise longstanding product? In our situation, the need for padding and protection from abrasion on ethnographic objects will still lead us to use it, but I’m wondering about the longer view with regards to this material. Thanks, Jamie Jamie Hascall Craftsman, Trainer, Consultant Mountmakingfocus.com jamie@mountmakingfocus.com Seattle, WA emilio Jun 4 Hi Jaime, I do use volara as well and I'm surprised to hear this. We are not testing regularly and the stock I still have remaining is fairly old (at least 8 years). Last time I bought it was through University Products. At the moment we do not have a conservator on staff so If I would like to have it tested I would have to send it to a private lab. I'm curious what others have to say. It is a nice product. (or was). Emilio Pamela Gaible Jun 4 For what it's worth. Field Museum's oddy test Black volara no adhesive from Gaylord Tested in 2017 - Passed White volara no adhesive from Matsterpak tested in 2014 - Passed  (since I still have a stash of this we have not retested it this year but it is due.) Black Adhesive backed - Lineco Volara Foam Rabbet Tape tested in 2017 - Failed Best Pam kenymarshall Jun 4 I'm sure that some of you have seen this but for those that haven't...here's the American Institute for Conservation wiki page for Oddy test results for case construction. https://www.conservation-wiki.com/wiki/Oddy_Test_Results:_Case_Construction_Materials Volara seems to be considered temporary or unsuitable depending on type. Really depends on the nature of the object I would think. Keny  The Andy Warhol Museum Natural History

beth 2/15/13 Hi all, I am looking for more information about the issue of galvanic corrosion. I've been asking the conservators and they have a huge range of reactions to the issue. Some sound as though the mount will implode if there is a steel D-ring attached to the brass mount others saying that as long as it's not being installed in a swamp it will be fine.  Does anyone have information about this? Thoughts about what to do? Are certain alloys better or worse than others?  I am currently working on a group of brass mounts with brass posts that will sleeve into steel tube and plates to the wall. One conservator suggested a sleeve of teflon over the brass, though the set screw might pierce the teflon and how secure is that really? Maybe sleeve of another type of metal?  Thanks for your thoughts Philip Brutz 2/15/13 You could coat the brass rod with B-72 and use nylon tipped set screws.  Or could you use stainless steel or brass tube?  We often make or own brass sockets on the metal lathe. Philip Brutz Mount Maker Exhibition Production The Cleveland Museum of Art 11150 East Boulevard Cleveland, Ohio 44106-1797 T  216-707-2617 F  216-707-6687 www.ClevelandArt.org carole.dignard@pch.gc.ca 2/15/13 Hi: There is info on galvanic corrosion on p. 28-30 of Lyndsie Selwyn's book Metals and Corrosion: A Handbook for the Conservation Professional, Canadian Conservation Institute 2004 , described here http://www.cci-icc.gc.ca/bookstore/viewCategory_e.aspx?id=20&thispubid=504 Carole Dignard Objects Laboratory | Laboratoire d'objets Canadian Conservation Institute | Institut canadien de conservation 1030 Innes Road | 1030, chemin Innes Ottawa, Canada  K1A OM5 Phone | Téléphone : 613-998-3721 ext./poste 151 Phone (toll-free in Canada) | Téléphone (sans frais au Canada): 1-866-998-3721 Facsimile (Fax)  | Télécopieur : 613-998-4721 Teletypewriter (toll-free) | Téléimprimeur (sans frais) :  1-888-997-3123 Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada Jamie Hascall 2/15/13 Hi Beth, I don’t think I’d spend too much time worrying about galvanic corrosion in a normal museum environment. I feel that without a high moisture level and a way of completing a circuit, you shouldn’t develop the potential for the exchange of ions that is galvanic corrosion. Unless you have an electrolyte to help move the process along there isn’t going to be much of a tendency to corrode. I’ve used steel sockets with brass posts for years and have never seen any sign of corrosion where the two join. The one place that does merit some attention is to not leave excess flux present after silver brazing a joint on a metal mount. The flux can be hygroscopic and can lead to a certain amount of surface corrosion. In a worst-case scenario, it could lead to a post and socket either loosening, or freezing together. That said, it tends to be more of a mess than a structural hazard. I say these things both as a long-time mountmaker who uses metals in combinations on a regular basis, and as a former boat owner. I did get to know the realities of galvanic corrosion while living on a wooden sloop on Puget Sound in Seattle. In that setting they can definitely be a serious problem.  Please feel free to get in touch directly if you’d like to talk about this further. Best regards. Jamie Hascall Chief Preparator Museums of New Mexico Exhibits Santa Fe 505-476-5079 Jamie Hascall 2/15/13 I forgot to add that the Wikipedia entry on Galvanic Corrosion is quite a good explanation of the process. I encourage you to give it a look. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion Jamie

Ashley 1/28/12 I wanted to pass this inquiry on from the PACCIN website. Any suggestions? ***************************************************************************************************************************************************************************** I am wondering if anyone has had success securing sculptures with magnets. I am concerned with increased security in the case of an earthquake. The works in question are already mounted well on bases with steel plates on their bottoms. The client moves their artworks regularly, so wants flexibility and will not consider clips to secure the bases to the shelves. I was wondering about using rare earth magnets below the shelves or tabletops to further secure the steel plates on the bases to the shelves. If anyone has experience/advice, I would really appreciate hearing it. Thanks, ******************************************************************************************************************************************************************************* My thanks for any insights or experiences that you might be willing to share. Cheers, Ashley -- T. Ashley McGrew PACCIN Publications Chair Art and Object - Integrated Preservation Systems 3749 2nd. Avenue La Crescenta, CA 91214 (646) 265 - 5526 ashley@pacin.org Chris Harrison 1/30/12 Ashley, I've been using some heavy duty magnets to secure the back panels of some wall cases for over 4 years now and have had great success. These panels are z-clipped at the top so the magnets are just there to keep the panel from shifting during install/de-install. They are not really bearing any of the weight. I have not tried them in the way you suggest in your email but I don't see why they wouldn't work there too. One difficulty I encountered with my panels is the need for a method of breaking the magnetic hold without scratching the surface or edge of the panel. The same will be a consideration in your application. You will want to experiment  of course. One other consideration: The magnets I use are only effective when in direct contact with the steel plates that are mounted to the back of my MDF back panels. And these magnets are very powerful dudes (about 3" in diameter and 3/4" thick!). If your thinking of moving the works around then routing the magnets into the shelf or table top is probably not an option. Its hard to tell how effective magnets would be through the thickness of a table or shelf.... Good luck! Chris

Philip Brutz 1/12/12 Down Draft grinding tables I am starting to outfit our new mount shop and I am considering getting one of these down draft tables.  Has anyone had experience with them? http://www.diversitech.ca/product-line/downdraft-tables.aspx Philip Brutz Mountmaker Cleveland Museum of Art 11150 E. Blvd. Cleveland OH 44106 (216)707-2617 steve 1/12/12 RE: Down Draft grinding tables Not a bad idea but limited to what will comfortably fit on the table in realistic working positions. Many years ago working in a rail road shop, we used a unit called a Smog Hog which was on wheels with a trunk with a large positional snorkel that you could position right next to your work. All smoke, dust and sparks were sucked into an electrostatic filter which was easily serviceable. Steve Osborne 720-865-5092 SOsborne@denverartmuseum.org Denver Art Museum 100 W. 14th Avenue Parkway Denver, CO 80204 steve 1/12/12 RE: Down Draft grinding tables Here is a link to “Smog Hogs”.     http://www.uasinc.com/PCN.aspx Steve Osborne 720-865-5092 SOsborne@denverartmuseum.org Denver Art Museum 100 W. 14th Avenue Parkway Denver, CO 80204 Chris Harrison 1/12/12 Re: [mountmaking-forum] Down Draft grinding tables Hey Phillip, Love these things! If this is your first time with one of these units you should consider the noise they produce. I haven't worked on any of the new units shown in the promo video from Downdraft so maybe they've managed to quiet them down but the older units were rather noisy. Chris Philip Brutz 1/12/12 RE: [mountmaking-forum] Down Draft grinding tables This one is about 79 dBA Philip Brutz 1/12/12 RE: Down Draft grinding tables We already have 2 of these Nederman extraction arms and you are right, they work great. http://www.nederman.com/products/extraction-arms/welding-fume-extraction-arms/original-welding-fume-and-dust-extraction-arm.aspx I am looking for a table to mount our grinders and belt sanders on. Brett Angell 1/12/12 Re: [mountmaking-forum] RE: Down Draft grinding tables I am using one here at the MFA-Boston.  First saw it used at the Getty and got a smaller version for my shop.  I can concur that it is loud but have mine in a separate workshop with other power tools so it is not in the object work area. I have two small 1" belt sanders and use a hand held flap disk on it as well.  Works great for most things.  Ironically most of the metal fragments don't get sucked up but just fall to the bottom because of their weight.  Same end result though.  Sucks up wood, epoxy, acrylic dust from across the room so it has great draw. Brett Angell Senior Exhibitions Preparator MFA-Boston Philip Brutz 1/12/12RE: [mountmaking-forum] RE: Down Draft grinding tables Do you have sides on it?  Or is it just an open table. Brett Angell 1/12/12 Re: [mountmaking-forum] RE: Down Draft grinding tables One side has the Hepa filter housing (which you can order on any side or the back) and the other side had a hinged door that can be opened if you need something to hang over the edge. Brett BJ 1/12/12 Re: [mountmaking-forum] Down Draft grinding tables Hi Phillip, We're using a mobile HEPA down draft table from Dual Draw for sanding (not welding ) that works pretty well: http://www.dualdraw.com/Products/Downdraft-Equipment/Portable-Downdraft-Tables.php For welding and heavier sanding we're using  portable task exhausts from Nederman.  They works well for most situations: http://www.nederman.com/products/mobile-welding-fume-and-dust-extractors/filtercart.aspx Best, BJ Farrar Mountmaker, Antiquities Conservation Getty Museum

Kim 8/19/11 Hello All, I’d like to hear about everyone’s experience with pickling. Do you make your own pickling solution or buy something?  What do you use for pickling brass and what do you use for pickling steel? I attempted to pickle my steel mounts with Sparex #2. Now I’m reading online that steel “contaminates” the pickle. Does that mean the pickle is now useless for my brass mounts? I’d love to hear everyone’s expertise on the subject of pickling. I’m using silver solder with brass and silver solder with steel, that I’m brazing with map gas. Thank you, Kim Flora Cincinnati Art Museum (513) 639-2884 Philip Brutz 8/19/11 We use Sparex # 2.  For steel we TIG weld.  I think that contamination is more a problem in jewelry making.  If the brass comes out of the pickle with a patina does it matter? Philip Brutz Mountmaker Cleveland Museum of Art 11150 E. Blvd. Cleveland OH 44106 (216)707-2617 braper@emory.edu 8/19/11 Kim, It doesn't necessarily contaminate except that steel in the pickle will copper-plate any brass that's in there at the same time. I am not aware that copper-plating a brass mount hurts anything however. To my knowledge steel doesn't need to be pickled. If you're using flux with steel fabrication, say for brazing, the flux does need to be removed. As I understand it the flux helps create an electric-charge that will eat away at the join if it's not removed but I may need correcting.  If you're not fluxing steel just use a wire brush and water to remove oxides before priming and painting. To remove flux after brazing steel (with silver solder or bronze brazing rod) quench the work while it's still hot and the flux will dissolve/come off in the water. I have a big 5-gallon bucket for quenching. I don't put anything other than brass in the pickle-pot. Stainless steel is OK in the pickle however. It will not copper-plate anything, even if that's an issue. You'll probably get a ton of responses. Good luck! TGIF! Bruce Raper  Pearl999 8/19/11 Hi Kim.  My background is in jewelry-making and metalsmithing.  There have been some times when I’ve had to combine brass and steel  with silver solder.  The contamination was explained to me as “contact plating”.    This only seemed problematic if you had metals in the pickling solution that you didn’t want accidentally copper-plated, like silver.  Once the steel is removed, the “plating” stops and the pickle is fresh as a daisy again.  That’s why you usually see copper tongs used in retrieving precious metals from those crock pots in jewelry class.  I hope this helps. Frances Suzi McG 8/19/11 Hi Kim, My background is also in jewelry/metalsmithing and what Frances and Bruce say are correct.  I'm probably a little more cautious about mixing metals in my pickling solution.  Probably because I'm often making jewelry & art at the same time as mountmaking.  I use Sparex for the brass and I also mix it with distilled water.  We have very hard water here and I've just found that it seems to be a more efficient solution with distilled water and I do get less plating on the brass.  Not that it really matters if you're going to paint the mounts anyway. I do change out my pickling solution fairly often (depending on how busy I am in the studio) and I do neutralize and clean the old pickle & pot very thoroughly before dumping it. When I bronze weld steel I don't pickle it - just quenching and a good brushing or bead blast is all it needs to be clean enough for painting. Suzi

Philip Brutz 12/8/11 My 3 minutes of fame as a Mountmaker Our Museum has started doing short behind the scene videos.  If anyone else has one it would be fun to see it. http://www.clevelandart.org/art/conservation/featuredconservationproject.aspx?pid={DDD30E7D-65D3-4306-A269-8F21FF781C0C}&ispopup=1

Penny 11/16/11 Hi, I was wondering if other people have tested the clear plastic dip, because it failed our oddy test. I thought some people here in the Forum had? Our samples showed discolouration on the lead and copper sample, and our Preventive Conservator said it is on the border of failing. He would definately only recommend using it for temporary exhibitions up to three months, and this was also not really recommended, because of the danger of the running time of an exhibition being extended or Mounts would be recycled unknowingly. We tested both the powder and the 'melted' dip. Anyone had similar results? Thanks, Penny Angrick Object Support Preparator - Mountmaker Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa Tory Street PO Box 467 Wellington New Zealand 0064-4-3817336 Philip Brutz 11/21/11 Hi Penny, I just had our Object Conservator recheck our ongoing ODDY test for clear Plascoat Vitroguard 12ES Natural 001 and it is still negative.  We have been using Vitroguard for about 6 years now with no problems.  Our stock is several years old so maybe they have changed the formula?  Or maybe it is a different formula in New Zealand?  This does illustrate they everyone should check everything that comes into contact with art work. What passes here may not pass somewhere else.  Thank you for bring this to our attention.  We need to be very cautious when we try new materials or techniques. Philip Brutz Mountmaker Cleveland Museum of Art 11150 E. Blvd. Cleveland OH 44106 (216)707-2617 Penny 11/21/11 Hi Philip, It was from the batch we all shared in the Forum, which was kindly organized by George from the RBCM. We usually get all products new to us tested by our Preventive Conservator, as he said that they should be retested every 5 years in case the supplier changes the formula. Has anyone who ordered from that batch get it tested too? I was thinking about trying to contact the supplier and find out more about it. Our Conservator does not recommend using it, so we'll shelf it I guess. Penny Angrick Object Support Preparator - Mountmaker Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa Tory Street PO Box 467 Wellington New Zealand 0064-4- 3817336 Field, George RBCM:EX 11/21/11 Hello Penny and all, I hope this isn't so, we will start up our tests on this batch, in case you don't have it, Rosa Perullo thwe rep's contact info for the Vitroguard is as follows, Rosa Perullo Punda Mercantile Inc. Tel: 514-931-7278 Fax: 514-931-7200 Email: info@punda.com George Field Penny 11/21/11 Thank you George, I will try and contact them, I hope your results will turn out different, so we might test again - we all really liked the dip. It is a shame that suppliers often change their mixtures without telling. A big thank you to you, for having organized the mail out! Kind regards, Penny Field, George RBCM:EX 12/5/11 Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone had an update or any new information on the clear Plascoat Vitroguard ? We are in the middle of an ODDY test with melted samples of the Plascoat plastic as it would occur for use, but won't have a good idea of the results for a while yet. The lead samples were black after a week, but then that was true in the control samples as well, the silver and copper are still bright.  We are about to start on a big exhibit of hundreds of small archeology artifacts and our team was hoping to use the Plascoat to coat the hundreds of custom bent pins we are using. Our exhibits project manager is pressing for options, I am going to mix up a batch of B-72 today, the shrink tube that we have been able to acquire is too large for the pins any other suggestions for appropriate barrier coatings? George Penny 12/5/11 Hi George, We sometimes use the silicon tubing for our pins, but I don't really like the look. You probably know them? I find them ok for smaller pins, and when they are hidden. But when they get bigger, the silicon appears too white. I was hoping to use a clear dip, it looks so much better. Penny Philip Brutz 12/5/11 Be careful about using silicone.  Some silicone has an oily substance that can stain some art work.  We clamp any silicone that we use to a clean terracotta pot for a few weeks to see if there is any oil transfer.  I recommend the polyolefin and Teflon heat shrink tubing from Benchmark. Penny 12/5/11 Hi Philip, We use the hospital/ food grade silicon tubing, which has been tested and passed. http://www.jehbco.com.au/HospitalTubing.htm http://www.globalscience.co.nz/gsonline/globalws.nsf/0/013B4B14F30F5D06C C25747D007D2778?openDocument&cap=50&sort=0&search=silicon Do you have a link for your heat shrink? This sounds interesting. Thanks, Philip Brutz 12/5/11 Benchmark is great because they ODDY test everything that they sell. http://www.benchmarkcatalog.com/main-padding.htm Joanne 12/5/11 Re: RE: [mountmaking-forum] Plascoat Vitroguard showed discolouration in our Oddy test For very tiny pins, I've sometimes just painted them with acrylic gel medium.  Joanne White Musée Héritage Museum david 12/5/11 Re: RE: [mountmaking-forum] Plascoat Vitroguard showed discolouration in our Oddy test To coat pins we frequently use three or four light coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Spray.  Insert the pins into the corner edge of a piece of Ethafoam so just the part that contacts the object is exposed.  Spray them once, give the block a snap of the wrist to get the excess spray off and let dry for three or four minutes. Repeat two or three more times.  Let dry thoroughly. Best to do it in a spray booth or fume hood.  It gives a smooth acrylic coating. David La Touche Steve Briscoe 12/5/11 I was once give this link by our conservator for covering very small pins and monofilament. I never ordered it so I don't know if it has other problems. http://vwrlabshop.com/intramedic-polyethylene-tubing-clay-adams-/p/0013744/search/intramedic%20tubing/search1intramedic%20tubing/ Steve BriscoeCollections Preparator Oakland Museum of California 1000 Oak Street Oakland, CA 94607 510-318-8477 Ashley 12/5/11 Hi George, I have been wondering about results on different tests being done on Plastcoat recently, but from what you describe it seems like you may have a bigger problem. If your control coupons are showing up black, then it brings into question the results of any materials tested in that specific "batch" yes?.  I know that may not be what you were actually asking for but it is something to think about. Ashley - show quoted text - T. Ashley McGrew PACCIN Publications Chair Art and Object - Integrated Preservation Systems 3749 2nd. Avenue La Crescenta, CA 91214 (646) 265 - 5526 ashley@pacin.org michael studebaker 12/7/11 Hi George, We use a material called Rhoplex when coating pins.  It is clear, but can also be pigmented with liquitex acrylic paint.  It comes in many differnt compositions, but the combination I always use is a 1:1 ration of AC-73 and AC-33. The 73 is very brittle when it dries, and the 33 stays quite soft, so you end up with a coating that is firm enough to be resilliant, but with a little bit of give to provide a nice grip. it can be dipped or brushed on, and its always best to prime your surface first to provide better adhesion. It has been tested and passed, and is used in other applications in the conservation department here. This link can get you started, but we havent ordered for a while, so you might need to look around. http://www.conservationresources.com/Main/uk_section_019/019_042.htm best, Michael Studebaker Mount maker Philadelphia Museum of Art Field, George RBCM:EX 12/7/11 Hi Penny, thanks for the comments, have you contacted Rosa Purello about the Plascoat, just curious about her take on this, or maybe alternatives that they sell. George Penny 12/7/11 Hi George, I'm tied up in exhibition work but was going to try and find some time before Christmas to mail her. It would be great to have an alternative dip, Thanks,

nick fennel 10/31/11 I'm shopping for a mini drill press. I do a lot of teenie weenie hole   drilling and have been doing it with a big, clumsy rig. I need the   finesse a mini would provide. I've looked on line and found Proxxon   and Microlux to be the best choices. Neither one of the have the cross   slide vice I need. Any suggestions? Thanks, Nick Fennel, Indie mountie in   Seattle Susan Skoczen 10/31/11 You should check out jewelry suppliers such as Rio Grande, Otto Frei and Contenti.com for any and all small tools. They would be the best resource. Philip Brutz 11/1/11 You might want to consider a miniature milling machine with a milling vise.  It can also be used as a lathe and is small enough to be carried from job to job. http://www.sherline.com/mills.htm http://www.sherline.com/3551inst.htm Philip Brutz Mountmaker Cleveland Museum of Art 11150 E. Blvd. Cleveland OH 44106 (216)707-2617 Kim 11/1/11 I'd check with Micro Mark.  They have been a great resource for those much needed micro tools. http://www.micromark.com/ Best, Kim Kimberly A. Flora Preparator Cincinnati Art Museum 953 Eden Park Drive Cincinnati OH 45202 ph. (513) 639-2884 fx. (513) 639-2996 kim.flora@cincyart.org www.cincinnatiartmuseum.org Jamie Hascall 11/1/11 Hi Nick, I definitely concur with Phillip. You find lots of other uses for a small milling machine besides precision drilling. The Chinese ones from Grizzley and others seem like they could work pretty well. Littlemachineshop.com has one on special right now and they're pretty decent folks to deal with.  There are also combo machines like Prazi and Emco small machines but they may not be as convenient for drilling as a dedicated mill or press. I'll see if anything else comes to mind. Good luck! nick fennel 11/1/11 Thanks Jamie and Phillip, and Susan. I'd never considered a milling   machine before. As I shopped, I thought about many projects that   seemed to take forever when they need not have, given the right tool.   I'm looking at the MicroLux mini miller. Philip Brutz 11/2/11 If you can afford the extra cost and weight the http://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-High-Precision-Heavy-Duty-R8-Miniature-Milling-Machine,9616.html uses the standard R8 taper making it a lot easier to buy used collets and bit holders.  But the http://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Micro-Milling-Machine,9683.html would be easier to move from job to job. nick fennel 11/2/11 Portability is key for me. Thanks. Philip Brutz 11/2/11 Then the Micro-Mill looks like a nice choice for you and it use the morse #1 taper.  There seems to be a good number used tools for it http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=morse+%23+1+taper&_sacat=See-All-Categories Let us know how it works out for you.  I might need to get one for home shop. Jamie Hascall 11/2/11 For portability and function I think that MicroLux Mini will work well for you.  I like the added capacity of the bigger mill and I agree with Philip on looking at the availability of tooling as that ends up being a major additional cost. For a little larger machine, this one is a nice compromise in cost and capacity, and also comes with a good set of collets. http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4223  I think the bigger one from MicroMark is probably the same machine but the R-8 spindle and some of the other features are a step up For myself, I'd hate to lose the capacity that my Clausing 8520 mill has. It's been a great tool. Of course, it weighs in at close to 800 lbs. Not taking that one to an on-site job. http://www.lathes.co.uk/clausing%20vertical/index.html Good luck, Jamie

Jen Jackson 8/16/11 Anybody know if its safe to place objects directly on Kydex? This is a non-permanent installation.  Thanks for your suggestions. Pamela Gaible 8/16/11 Jen, we have not used this particular product-(see description below).  Acrylic/PVC - that is fire retardant.  FM Conservators here usually stay away from PVC and fire retardant materials.  I would suggest oddy testing a piece of it if possible to make sure it will not harm your objects.  Acrylic is a much safer choice of material in contact with artifacts. If you absolutely need to use the material.....I would use a barrier such as mylar between the material and the object.  If case is sealed tightly it could be a problem.  If case has air exchange it would be better.  Be careful sometimes 3 month exhibits can turn into 12 months or longer due to budget short comings.  Pam KYDEX® thermoplastic sheet    (Kydex 100) is manufactured from an acrylic / PVC alloy that has some very unique characteristics. Tough, nonporous, noncorrosive, chemical resistant, fire retardant and thermoformable. KYDEX® sheet has very good abrasion resistance and virtually no moisture absorption. Material is normally 48" x 96". Thickness runs from .028" to .500" thick. Roll stock is available in the thinner grades. Several different surface patterns are available. General Information About KYDEX® Sheet: The KYDEX® name is a trademark of the Kleerdex Company for their proprietary thermoplastic. Each grade is custom suited for your particular application or performance need. They typically should be considered for applications requiring any or all of the following benefits: Fire Retardancy High Impact Resistance Rigidity Superior Chemical Resistance Thermoformability KYDEX® Sheet is typically not a cost-effective substitute for cheaper thermoplastics such as polyethylene, styrene, or cheap ABS, unless those materials are not performing satisfactorily. KYDEX® Sheet can be very competitive and effective as an alternative to painted metal, fire-retardant ABS, Noryl®, Lexan® (polycarbonate), etc. KYDEX® Sheet complies with Underwriter’s Laboratory, CSA, Building Code and / or FAA flammability requirements. Because of the high impact resistance of KYDEX® Sheet, it has a longer in service life and is very durable. The rigidity allows for a better feel and /or the ability to downgauge. Its superior chemical resistance allows it to be used in harsh, chemically rich environments. It also makes KYDEX® Sheet extremely cleanable because harsh cleaners do not damage the texture or the color of the material. KYDEX® Sheet has excellent forming properties that result in uniform wall thicknesses and crisp detail. There are a complete range of grades, colors, sheet sizes and textures available to meet the most demanding applications. Field, George RBCM:EX 8/16/11Hello Jen, Kydex is a thermoplastic acrylic-polyvinyl chloride, our conservation policy is to stay clear of PVC plastics as a rule, short term maybe long term contact no. George Jen Jackson 8/17/11 Thanks guys! I will see if we can find another case material & at the very least use Mylar for all of the objects. I appreciate your help! Ashley 8/17/11 Re: [mountmaking-forum] Re: Kydex? Hi Jen, When I mentioned Sintra earlier I did so because it has been used and retested many times for well over a decade by the Getty Museum and I know that it has been tested and used by at least one of the SI museums and bunch of other reputable institutions. That said, the first time I saw it, I freaked out as well and started to tell folks that we needed to send the stuff back! I think we have probably all been taught the same general lessons about material types, and in that context PVC products are a big No No. On the other side of the coin I have also seen quite a variety of polyethylene products fail tests over the years and they are supposed to be a "good" material! Oddy testing famously has its limitations but the idea that you can judge a material solely by looking at an MSDS is just an exercise in wishful thinking I am afraid. Anyway one of the main characteristics that makes Sintra desirable is that it has working qualities kind of like a slightly soft grainless plywood, it takes paint well etc... If these characteristics are part of what you are looking for you might try Renshape which as I understand it is slightly stiffer than Sintra. This is a product that has been recommended by Pamela Hatchfield (author of "Pollutants in the Museum Environment") and that is used at Boston MFA. I believe it is actually a polyurethane product - which you also wouldn't expect to consistently pass Oddy testing - but apparently it has. The only downside to this material that I have heard of is that the thinnest it comes in is 1" sheet thickness. Good luck with your quest. Let us know if you discover something that everyone can agree on! Best regards, Ashley

Philip Brutz 6/23/11 Jamie Hascall was visiting our mount shop yesterday and we had a very interesting conversation about making mounts for x-raying objects.  I told him I would send a link to a video about the Antikythera Mechanism and thought maybe others would find it interesting. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiQSHiAYt98&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znM0-arQvHc Philip Brutz Mountmaker Cleveland Museum of Art 11150 E. Blvd. Cleveland OH 44106 (216)707-2617

Penny 6/8/11 Hi, our ethafoam supplies are running low, and we are unable to source any more at a decent size per sheet in New Zealand. I guess there is not sufficent demand for suppliers here. And a company in Australia want to charge us 600$ for not even a full size sheet. Has anyone got a good supplier to ship to overseas, and what density and size sheet are you getting? Thanks for any help, Penny Angrick Object Support Preparator - Mountmaker Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa Tory Street PO Box 467 Wellington New Zealand Steve Briscoe 6/8/11 We use Foam Distributors in the Bay Area. 510-471-5501 Don't know if they could handle oversees. Maybe if you order enough... We order 4' x 9' planks of 1/2,1 and 2" as well as rolls of the thinner stuff. Generally we use the 1.5 or 3lb density but they can get the 6 and 9lb. Steve Steve Briscoe Chief Preparator, History Department Oakland Museum of California 1000 Oak Street Oakland, CA  94607 ph. 510.238.2244 <> fax 510.238.3044 "The Story of California. The Story of You" Oakland Museum of California www.museumca.org Penny 6/8/11 Thanks Steve, we normally use Ethafoam 220, do you know what this translate to? Cheers, Penny Ashley 6/8/11 220 is 2.2 lb density, Ethafoam 400 is 4 lb, 600 - 6 lb etc... The 2.2 has been the traditional industry standard in the US for crate cushioning. - show quoted text - T. Ashley McGrew PACIN Publications Chair Art and Object - Integrated Safety Systems 3749 2nd. Avenue La Crescenta, CA 91214 (646) 265 - 5526 t.ashley@artandobject-iss.com Penny 6/8/11 Thanks guys, of course that makes sense. I did an inquiry at the Foam Distributers in the Bay, I see if they get back to me. Penny Suzi McG 6/13/11 Hi Penny, I talked to my local foam people, San Antonio Foam Fabricators and she said they could do overseas shipping.  Here is their contact info: http://www.sanantoniofoam.com/contact.shtml Good luck and let us know how it goes. Best, Suzi

Pedro Viegas 6/13/11 Hi Does anyone know of suppliers for small, clear acrylic boxes for specimens storage in the UK? The ones we currently use are excellent and cheap but come from Portugal and i need some in urgency.  Thanks Pedro Viegas Fossil Preparator University of Bristol Pamela Gaible 6/13/11 Pedro, University Products carries a clear heavy polyester box w/lid for storage with metal corners - good for smaller or lighter weight objects. Acrylic box or cube can be purchased thru www.artdisplay.com... These are both east coast companyies. Not sure if they will ship to the UK.  Pam Joanne 6/13/11 Durphy Packaging has a good selection but it's also in the US. Joanne White Curator Musée Héritage Museum Field, George RBCM:EX 6/13/11 Pedro, Here on the west coast of Canada we usually use a plastic box manufactured by a company called Durphy packaging, their web site, http://www.durphypkg.com/plastic-boxes-containers/plastic-boxes.html. For large boxes we have been going to polycarbonate boxes with lids from a restaurant supply company. These have been economical and are very sturdy. Hope this is of some help. George Field, George RBCM:EX 6/14/11 Hi again Pedro, In case it is of any help, I contacted Durphy packaging in the USA,I asked if they had a UK distributor, their response is as follows- Good day George, I’m sorry we do not have anyone in the UK. We can and do ship anywhere in the world from our facility in the US. Is there something specific I can help you with? Michael Durphy Durphy Packaging Company 47 Richard Road Ivyland,   PA     18974 215-674-1260 www.durphypkg.com You could email and ask him directly. George Field

Drew Watt 7/5/12 Hello Mount Group, Does anyone out there know of any product that is a roll of thin silicone with an adhesive back. I'm hoping to find something that acts similar to the silicone anti-slip feet that people use on furniture, but in a thin (1/32" - 1/16") roll with adhesive so that I could apply in to the bottom of a mount. It would have to be Oddy approved of course. Thanks for any help that you can offer. Cheers, Drew Drew Watt Mountmaker and Exhibit Specialist National Gallery of Art Washington, DC 202.842.6069 Makeboxes 7/5/12 Drew, if there proves not to be such a product, could you make your own using thin sheets of silicone and 3M adhesive transfer tape? Anne Lane Steve Briscoe 7/5/12 I've very little luck with getting adhesives to stick to our silicon gasket material. We're starting Oddy tests on this from McMaster: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3543/=ia4spe  Comes with the adhesive. I'll post results if I remember down the road.  Steve BriscoeCollections Preparator Oakland Museum of California 1000 Oak Street Oakland, CA 94607 510-318-8477 Drew Watt 7/12/12 Thank you Steve and Anne for your suggestions; they are both good ones. An update on this idea: after consulting with conservation we've decided to go a different route. There was concern about the possibility of moisture being trapped between the silicone sheet and the surface of the table below and so we've decided not to use it in this instance because we're primarily working with wooden surfaces. In an application with stone I'm sure this would work well. Instead we'll use Benchmark's sueded polyethylene which, while not as tacky as silicone, will allow moisture to flow freely. Cheers David and Mair! Drew Julia Bushue 8/9/12 I would also be interested in hearing the Oddy test results for the McMaster silicone - which one on the linked page are you testing? At the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, they have used a poured silicone to secure certain Native American artifacts: http://www.circuitspecialists.com/rtv615-1p.html. It's pretty expensive, but it can be cleaned (carefully) and reused. It's not adhesive, obviously, but the tackiness was enough to keep the object from sliding around. Julia Bushue Assistant Mountmaker St. Louis Art Museum Steve Briscoe 8/14/12 Re: [mountmaking-forum] Re: Adhesive back silicone 8622K51 Some of the others are possibles too but I haven't got samples of them. This was the only one they carried in long lengths which will work for case channels. SB