Hello all. I have a client who owns a small Rickey sculpture. The installation crew used some 1/4" tie-wedge concrete bolts in the tile floor to secure it. They are way too short and because of the tapered tips, the nuts barely are engaged. The whole piece is not secure as a result. Especially when you add a washer to the mix.
Compounding the issue is the fact that the underside of the base has a slight bow to it in the center. So it wants to rock a bit.
I'm wondering if there's an easy way to extend the length of these and maybe step them up to a 5/16" bolt? Like a sleeve or hollow threaded rod with a 5/16 exterior and a 1/4-20 interior? Does something like that exist? Maybe I can make them out of stainless rod?
I can't move the piece or drill new holes. The mechanics of this kinetic sculpture are such that it needs to stay exactly where it is to avoid architectural elements.
Looking for some ideas here. The client isn't keen on adding a build-up to solve the problem either. I can't add shims to stop the rocking until there's more threads to secure it. Frustrating as I'd only need another 1/8" or so of length to solve everything. *shakes fist at previous installation crew*
Hi James,
The one thought I have comes from (of all places) Ikea. I'm specifically thinking of the washer nut combination the is part of the knock down fastening system with the threaded sleeve of the nut engaging the threads that are in the hole and below the surface. The main question is whether there is sufficient room in the hole to accommodate them. Like these. https://www.mcfeelys.com/1/4-x-20-decorative-head-cap-nuts,-17mm-(669-in)-long,-brass-plated-qty:25.html.html
Good luck!
Hi Jamie! Thanks for the tip, this is a great simple solution for sure! Only issue is the OD is near 3/8" and the holes in the Rickey are 3/8". Those 1/4 bolts are nowhere near straight and dead center. So I have a suspicion I wouldn't be able to engage all four.
But! Maybe I can just make my own using 5/16 rod and tap it. Then just weld on a cap stolen from another fastener.
Thanks again for taking the time!
Yours,
James
Spark&Anvil
The alignment was obviously going to be an issue as well as whether a fastener like that is made of a strong enough material to do the job. The main thing I was looking at was the available threads below the upper surface of the base and whether they can be accessed. I don't envy your task and wish you the best of luck in finding a work around.
Jamie
Evenin' Jamie! I was able to find a stainless option but nothing graded. Which doesn't surprise me. Although it might be worth getting a few just to test out the theory. It would be a slick solution.
The holes were filled later by a conservator to keep water out. It was just an acrylic epoxy and could easily be cleared out to have deeper access to the holes.
My original solution was to fabricate a hollow steel box the same width and depth of the base of the sculpture. With a top access hole to secure from the inside nuts to lock into the existing 1/4-20 bolts. Then lower the piece onto the top of the box and bolt the object to the box. It would need to be and inch or two high to accommodate. But the top would need a lip wide enough to be threaded this reducing the access hole significantly as the overall dims of the sculpture's base is only 4"x4".
Not in love with that solution as I feels it's making the whole thing too complicated and also increasing the number of connection points which to me allows for areas of potential failure. It's not a sexy solution in other words.
The client doesn't want to add a deck or build up at all. Nor can I move the piece to accommodate. I worry that only moving it a little bit would cause weakness in the surrounding stone/concrete. My rule of thumb with concrete is the anchor holes should be at least 3" apart for 1/4-20.
Thanks for talking it all out with me! It's such an asset to have you and other fellow mountmakers to discuss tricky situations/solutions. You rock good sir. Cheers!